Despite the long drive, we really enjoyed ourselves. The sleeper train that we were in had bunk beds 3 stories high. This was ok if you were on the bottom bunk, as there was enough room to sit up, but if you were at the top or middle level, there was only enough room to lie down. Being at the top it was miserable until we figured that we didn't need to go up there until we were actually sleeping. It was fun and social being squashed together on the train, and I think it helped our group to bond right from the start.
We finally arrived in Yangshuo, and were immediately struck by the beauty of the place. The town was quaint like a ski village, and the weather seemed about as cold. The mountains all around were the most bizarre we had ever seen. There were hundreds of little mountains that looked like giant rocks towering into the sky. All of them were tall and thin, and they filled the horizon. They looked very much like the islands on Halong Bay, Vietnam, but rising from the earth, not the water.
After settling into our hotel, we left the shore on a little boat to see the landscape by the Li River. The ride was beautiful but freezing cold. The roof of the boat rolled back, like a convertible and we stood watching the mountains pass by and locals on the riverbanks.
We stopped at a local village, and looked at the temple that was built by the riverside. It had an angel statue that was to protect the people on the river. They explained to us here that the dragon is made of many different animals. It has the eyes of a shrimp, the body of a snake,...
They took us to a cave where huge stalactites were hanging, and a river was running out of it. We also saw the famous 3 ponds, which are different colours. One was yellow, one was blue, and one was white. It was hard to see though because the heavy rain had stirred up the waters and obscured the colours.
Amy, one of our guides in training, translated a sign which told of the legend of the 3 ponds. The quick version is that there were mermaids in the area, and a rich man treated them badly, so a fairy told the mermaids to perform a ritual, and the rich man would be destroyed. They did, and his the earth shook and his house sunk into the ground. The ponds lie where the house once stood.
Next they showed us the village which was ancient. A lot of the houses were originals and were beautifully contructed. We looked at one house which was owned by a fairly wealthy man, and then we saw another house where the owner was still living. He and his wife were so old! He was bent over with age, but he was so sweet. He was very proud of his garden, so we had a look at all his herbs and flowers. They didn't charge us to see their house, so we bought a cute little porcelain turtle that they were selling.
Thursday, April 24, 2008
Yangshuo, Guanxi Province, China 31.03.08
Wednesday, April 9, 2008
Hong Kong 29.03
We escaped our cell to get some dinner. We were close to the ferry terminal, so we had a look at the beautiful view of the skyscrapers on the bay again. We struggled to find somewhere to eat. The Harbour Centre was very upmarket, and the only other eating options were fast food places.
The next morning, we moved our luggage to West Hotel, where we would meet our tour group for the Essence of China Intrepid Tour. We were pleasantly surprised at the quality of the hotel. It seemed like a palace after the last place we were at. We had a flat screen TV on the wall, a fridge and a blow-dryer, which Loren was absolutely thrilled about!
We ate breakfast at a Japanese place which was kind of like a fast food place, but with good food! Most of the day was spent shopping for things that we needed. We visited the famous Electronics Street in Kowloon, where everything we saw seemed like something we needed! Some things were half the price we'd pay at home!
We bought a wireless, foldable keyboard so we could update the blog on the mobile, then upload what we'd written onto the internet later. It's been very helpful, although it might not seem like it with all the delays in posting lately! We've had trouble getting internet access on the tour.
Loren also bought some nail art supplies and has been making all sorts of wonderful artwork on her nails. We also found a tiny calculator which saves a lot of stress when it comes to bargaining in another currency.
After lunch, we headed back to the hotel to meet the group. We were apprehensive, wondering what they were going to be like. We arrived last and saw a crowd of young people. Relief! Especially after being on a boat with just older people on Halong bay.
Our tour guide, Mathieu, is from Quebec, and he has lived in China for 6 years and speaks fluently. There are also two trainee leaders from China, two lovely girls called Ammy and Cathy. There are 2 Australian girls, 4 people from the UK, 1 from Denmark and us.
The next morning we went back to Hong Kong island after breakfast at the same Japanese place. We went straight to Hollywood Road, to buy an antique souvenir. We found a little snuff bottle that was 40 years old. It was beautifully made.
We came back to the hotel to meet the group, and there our tour began...
Bangkok, Thailand 28.03
The next morning we got up early to see the Royal Palace. We arrived by taxi just before the gates opened. The sun got hot very quickly as the time passed.
Before we headed to the airport for Hong Kong, we stopped at a little market. We bought some badges of the King of Thailand to pin on Loren's t-shirt next to her badge of Stewie from family guy. Everywhere in Thailand, there are pictures of the King - his time as a monk, as a soldier, taking photos, waving like the pope. Very amusing :)
Chiang Mai, Thailand 27.03
Old Chiang Mai
Museum of Arts and Culture
Night Life
That evening, we hired a scooter at a local travel agent, as we were planning to visit the Monkey Centre and the Snake Farm in Mae Rim. At the travel agent, Loren discovered a brochure called 'The Flight of the Gibbons'. It turns out it was a 3 hour version of the 'Gibbon Experience'! We were thrilled to find it, so we booked it for the next day.
For dinner, we took a scooter to the Night Bazaar and wandered around until we found a cute outdoor garden restaurant. On our way, we wandered through the Thai boxing venue which was filled with sleazy bars and pool venues. Unfortunately there were no games on that night.
After we finished checking out the night bazaar, we realised that we were craving ice cold watermelon, probably because of the heat. So we rode off the the local market to find some fresh fruit.
The Flight of the Gibbons
The next day we started off early for our Gibbon adventure. When we got there, we chilled out for a while drinking tea and coffee and meeting the other people who were in our group. Once we were equipped with harnesses and bamboo sticks for brakes, we headed for the tree tops.
At some points, we were lowered on a rope to lower platforms. The last time we did this, we did it face first! Like spiders with our arms and legs dangling as we were lowered to the ground.
The people in our group were really friendly. We met two girls who are living and studying in Hawaii, two guys from Bath, England and an American family of 3. We had a great time with them and we all exchanged details hoping to host each other when we are back in our respective countries.
After a delicious lunch, we headed off to see the waterfall. We hiked up to see all 7 levels of the waterfall. There were supposed to be a lot of baby anacondas around, but only one of us saw it. Loren was most disappointed. The top levels were slippery, but we wanted to see the snakes, so we persisted. They were nowhere to be found, so Loren just cooled her feet in the fresh pools of water.
Snake Farm
We arrived back to Chiang Mai, and we thought we'd only have time to see the Monkey show. So we rushed off, and made it about 45 minutes before the show started, so we headed back down the road where the snake farm was. This show went for 30 minutes, so we had just enough time to see both!
We loved the snake show! They showed us the fangs of posionous snake and then we had to touch it for good luck. There was a hilarious commentator who talked in a monotone voice, and had music that sounded like Indiana Jones theme music playing. Everytime he spoke, he turned down the music. It was one of the best parts!
The performers tossed snakes out of bags and the snakes would try to bite them and chase them. The guys would try to pick them up again. They got bitten a lot, maybe just on their clothes, but only by the non-poisonous snakes. At one point, a guy caught 3 snakes, catching the final one with his mouth.
We got to hold a huge python and kiss it for good luck. Some of the women were so scared. It was pretty funny later, the guys told us there was a jumping snake which could jump 46m high. Then out of the box came a long thing that flew up and into the crowd, it turned out it was a piece of rope! Some of ladies nearly had heart-attacks.
Monkey Show
Afterwards, we went to the monkey show. We saw a little baby monkey sucking its thumb, so cute! But then we saw all these other monkey with chains around their necks, tied to poles. We thought they must just have them waiting there for the show.The show started with a monkey demonstrating the different steps in their training to pick coconuts. There was also monkeys riding bikes, lifting weights, playing basketball, doing push-ups. Loren also had her hands tied and the monkey undid the knots and then sat on her lap.
Holding the monkey was great, and probably the experience that most people want is to be close to an animal or even hold it. However, the rest of the show just made us sick. You could see that the monkeys were bored and unhappy, and they were constantly chained, even while performing tricks. The things they did seemed so unnatural and cruel. We didn't really enjoy the show at all.
Afterwards, we wandered around and saw the tiny cages that the monkeys were kept in. We also realised that the monkeys chained to poles were not the ones used in the show, that's just how they were left to live. We were shocked, especially seeing as monkeys are used to the freedom of the jungle not tiny cages and chains.
After dinner, we headed to the airport to fly to Bangkok. We saw almost everyone from the Gibbon trip at the airport!
Overall we found North Thailand to be much friendlier than Bangkok. A lot less people tried to cheat us. Some even corrected us if we misunderstood and gave 40 baht instead of 14.
Here's a drawing of something we saw, that we didn't manage to catch with our camera. We thought it would be hard to imagine without a sketch to help you understand.