Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Bern, Switzerland 17.08

We woke up in Bern, after another long day of driving. We were surprised that our tent was still standing, and we were impressed with our tent skills in the dark. After breakfast, we headed into town, and found ourselves a great parking space, close to the action. We were quite surprised by the crazy and complicated road lines. There were lines for bikes, cars, taxi and buses, and footpaths for pedestrians. There were paths for every imaginable means of transport available, pretty cool!
The weather wasn't that great, it was a little bit drizzly and cloudy. We wandered past the Town Hall, which had a statue of a topless man with tight, long pants on. He looked like a tradesman, so maybe it was supposed to represent the working class people. Just next to the Town Hall was a beautiful church. We could hear music coming from it, so we assumed that the Sunday mass was in progress. We decided not to join the church service or disturb everyone inside, so we didn't get to see it.
We immediately fell in love with Bern, as soon as we saw its beautiful, quaint little streets. On each side of the street, there were huge, beautiful houses or apartments, stretching for whole blocks. Along the front of the buildings, there were flags with the Bern emblem, the bear, as well as Swiss national flags. We were also fascinated by the colourful statues on the building fronts, and the similar ones that were on top of fountains. You could find these colourful fountains, every few hundred metres. Each of them had a colourful sculpture of a person or an animal, often quite comical looking as well.

We were very surprised to find that all of the shops seemed to be closed that day. Bern is the capital city of Switzerland, we expected it to be like a big city, where nothing ever closes. In fact Bern only has 123,000 occupants, so its small town feel is actually genuine.
We did notice that every shop seemed to have an underground cellar in front of it. These cellars were built by the cautious Swiss government, as bomb shelters for its citizens in case the World Wars reached them. Nowadays, they use them as little shops and cafes, with big wooden doors at the top, and a staircase that leads into the shop below. There was only one open while we were there. It was an internet cafe.
There were so many unusual shops along these streets. Highly expensive shops mixed in with shops selling fancy knick-knacks and collectible items. There were shops with fancy Swiss watches, next to shops with coloured glass crockery, stores selling penis-shaped peppermint candy, Hermes scarfs, fancy coffee makers, piano accordions and bike couriers' clothing, bags and accessories.
The Swiss are apparently quite fond of collecting things and keeping hobbies. They collect common things like stamps, and sometimes much more unusual and larger things. This love of tinkering and attention to detail is probably why the Swiss are so good at making complicated little things like watches.
As we walked further down the street, we saw a huge crowd of tourists beneath a big clock tower. We realised that it was the Zeitglockentrum. This clock is famous because every hour, it chimes and little colourful, revolving figures come out of the clock. We approached the clock, just as the figures had stopped moving, but we enjoyed the chimes of the clock and the excitement of the crowd.
After seeing the clock tower, we walked further into the city and came across another famous Bern icon. This time, it was the Ogre Fountain. This fountain was very similar to the other fountains around the city, except that it had a statue of an ogre eating handfuls of children. It must have been part of a Swiss childrens story, maybe something to scare them into behaving. Not far from the fountain, we found a big bridge. We decided to walk across it to see the river below. We were quite shocked when we saw it. It was such a bright turquoise blue, and the current was faster than any river we had seen before. If you fell into that water, you'd be a kilometre downstream before you could even blink.
Next we came across a huge building with a plaza in front of it. The plaza was filled with fountains, that sprang up from the ground at different times. We were tempted to run through, at just the right moment and try not to get wet. Another girl beat us to it, and started running through the fountain. We chickened out though, as the weather was really cold and we didn't want to take the chance of being wet all day.
Just near the building with the fountains, there was a big old building, that was an original Swiss bank! We were quite excited to see it, as the Swiss banks are a famous institution and are always in movies and books.
We were very impressed with the banking system in Switzerland actually. Every time we used an ATM, it informed us on the screen of all the charges that would be applied by our bank and their bank, instead of leaving it to be discovered on our bank statement later. We were also quite surprised to find that their bank notes have the writing and pictures displayed vertically, instead of horizontally like all the other notes we have seen in our lives.
Next we went to visit the Gothic Cathedral called the 'Munster'. It was built in the 15th century, and has a huge tower. The front of the church was quite pretty, with a big sculptured facade that almost looked like an altar piece.
The interior of the church was quite plain compared to many of the amazing churches that we had seen up to this point. There is one defining and famous feature though; the 12m stained glass window. It was a very beautiful window, and we were able to get behind the altar to have a close look at it.
Our next task of course, was to climb the huge tower. There were two levels of the tower, that we were able to reach. The first one was about half way up the tower, and the second one was at the very top!

When we reached the top, we fell in love with Bern even more. It was just so pretty! The terracotta roof tiles formed a perfect carpet beneath us. Little towers and turrets rose up from the carpet, and the streets carved little divisions and patterns within it.
The river Aure surrounded the city like a peninsula, and glowed like a bright blue ribbon. All around the water and the edges of the city, were beautiful forests and sections of trees. In the background there were mountains rising up on all sides. It was everything we had imagined Switzerland to be.
When we reached the foyer of the church again, we decided to buy some postcards. We found of the city in winter. It was even more beautiful with snow covering the roofs and little fairy lights and Christmans lights everywhere. We decided that we would like to retire in Bern, and spend our days occupied with little hobbies and snuggling away in a little snow covered cabin.

After seeing the church, we went to see the symbol of Bern at the 'Baren Graben', or 'bear pits'. Just across the river, there are bear pits since which have been there since 1857. We were curious to see what the pits were actually like, so we crossed the bridge on the other side of the city.
The pits turned out to be a large, sunken cement hole. There were plants growing here and there, and there was a platform in the centre. The bear wandered around aimlessly and disinterestedly ate the fruit that visitors threw to him. He looked pretty depressed, so we felt really sorry for him. Apparently there were more bears in there originally, so he was probably lonely. We did hear that are building a new and better place for him to live, so we hope that he will be happier soon. Just near the bear pits, there was an old Tram Depot. It had been turned into a tourist information centre, and a restaurant. We had some lunch here out on the terrace, with a great view across the river to the city. The restaurant brewed its own fresh beer, so we tried some of that, and some of the very German food that they served here. This part of Switzerland is German speaking, and they obviously follow the German diet here too. We had some great sausages and a big pretzel.
After lunch, we headed to the new section of town, where the main train station is. There was a shopping centre attached to the train station, with shops that were actually open! So we made the most of the shops, and bought some delicious Swiss chocolate. We bought a couple of flavours, but later we wished we had bought more, it was so amazing and creamy!

We also looked for an alcohol shop, so we could buy another very famous product from Switzerland - absinthe! Absinthe was only made legal again in Switzerland in 2004. It was banned a long time ago because of bad publicity and stories about it effects. Scientist now say that absinthe doesn't actually have much more effect than the effects of the alcohol itself, and that the alcohol strongly counteracts the other ingredients which might have a halucinogenic effect.
We decided to buy some anyway, just because we could, and because we were in Switzerland. We tried some when we got back to the campsite, but it didn't really do anything other than make us tipsy.

After dinner, we went for a walk along the river near our campsite. It was so beautiful, and the sun was setting while we were walking. The water was really blue next to our campsite as well, but the current looked quite scary looking. It was such a beautiful end to our stay in Bern.

To see the photos from the post in slideshow mode, click on on the link below:
Bern pictures

Friday, November 14, 2008

Lyon, France and Geneva, Switzerland 16.08

We left Avignon early that morning, as there was another long day of driving ahead of us. The French highways were great, as they were all 130km/h. The only downfall was how expensive it is to travel on them. There are toll booths everywhere, and the prices are not cheap, nor is the price of petrol, which is about double that of Australia.

Lyon, France
We decided to stop for lunch in Lyon, which was directly on our way. We were quite surprised by it, and by how pretty it was. As we neared the centre of town, we found ourselves driving by the river, which cuts beautifully through the town. There were bridges all along the water, and spectacular old buildings on either side.
Once we found a parking space, we walked around the beautiful streets of Lyon. We found a big square called Place des Terreaux, with a lovely 19th century fountain in the middle. It was sculpted by Frederic Auguste Bartholdi, the creator of the New York Statue of Liberty.
We found a little street, filled with cafes, and decided to have lunch there. We chose some delicious food, and enjoyed another immaculate French meal. We had to wait a long time, as the service was pretty slow, but our waitress was very helpful. She gave us directions to a FNAC bookshop, as we were hoping to buy a couple of things before we left.
We found the bookshop, and spent a bit of time checking out the mini laptops like the Asus. Loren managed to finally drag him away, and we saw some cool sections of books on the other levels. There were enormous sections of comic books and manga titles, just like they have in Japan! Apparently France has a huge comic book culture too. Quite impressive.
Geneva, Switzerland
Soon we headed back to the car, and made our way to our next stop for the day, Geneva. We had originally been planning to stay in Geneva, but when we did some research, we decided that the other places in Switzerland looked more interesting. We were still keen on seeing the place though, so we took another detour through the city.
Somehow, we managed to arrive in what looked to be a red light district. It wasn't that there were huge neon signs around, boasting sex and brothels, it was the people that we saw there, and a couple of naughty video stores around. As we drove through, looking for somewhere to park, we kept spotting weird looking people.
There was a middle aged to older woman wandering across the street in a very revealing top, a short skirt and fishnets. She looked very aged and tired. We also saw another woman, who looked about 60 years old, riding her bicycle across our path. She was wearing a tight red vinyl miniskirt, high heels, black fishnets and who knows what else. This all happened in the matter of a couple of seconds, leaving us wondering what kind of people lived here, and if they were prostitutes, what kind of clientele did they have?
The other people populating these streets appeared to be immigrants of all nationalities. We have been in a lot of countries with extremely mixed races, but the people here were scary. It wasn't their skin colour, or any stereotype that people might have about them, it was the looks on their faces and the way they moved. They seriously looked like dangerous people, and didn't feel particularly safe.
We came across another street filled with fire engines, and realised that they were trying to rescue someone from an apartment about 3 floors up. We don't know what was wrong, but we saw them raising a stretcher to the window, and a fireman was riding up to move the person on to it. The whole street was blocked off from traffic, but pedestrians could still walk past and stare at the commotion.
We wandered down to the famous Lake Geneva, and spotted even more bizzare quantities of immigrants. These ones didn't look nasty, but there were so many of them! It appeared that the whole waterside was filled with middle eastern immigrants, with women covered from head to toe.
There was a kids train running, and mothers and children on board were almost all dressed in Muslim full covering clothing. More people down by the water, were walking with their husbands, wearing the whole black outfit, but carrying Louis Vuitton bags. It seems like they can't show off with anything else but with their shoes and bags, so the ones that can afford nice ones, show them off.
The lake itself was quite pretty, but not really what Loren had imagined. She put 'Lake' and 'Switzerland', together in her head and thought of a beautiful wide open space with a lake in the middle, and buildings further away from the water up on hills. Maybe grass alongside the water too. Unfortunately, the real thing was just a huge lake in the middle of a city, which creeps up on all sides of the lake. There are boats everywhere, and the sky seemed to be grey and ugly that day.
Maybe we just came there on a bad day, but we weren't thrilled with what we saw in Geneva. Maybe it's prettier when the sun is out.
It was getting dark, so we decided to get back onto the road, and try to get to our campsite in Bern, as quickly as possible. We got lost along the way, and found ourselves on a street with the same name as ours, but not our number.

Thankfully, a guy offered to give us directions to the campsite. He was very helpful, and we were so happy when we finally made it there. We quickly set up the tent in the dark, which we were used to by now. Pumping our squeaky mattress probably woke at least 70% of the other campers, but hey, we needed to sleep too. We collapsed for the night, and hoped for more relaxing days in the future.

To see the photos from the post in slideshow mode, click on on the link below:
Lyon and Geneva pictures

Avignon, France 15.08

We woke up in Avignon after a long recovering sleep. We didn't do much in the morning, as we were trying to regain some energy. By lunchtime, we headed into town, and found a cute cafe for a meal.
It was a beautiful, sunny day, but it was also extremely windy. In fact, it was so windy that most of the umbrellas from the outdoor section of our cafe and the neighbouring ones, were completely blown over! We were very happy to have the chance to practice our French again. We were both feeling a bit rusty, but we enjoyed the experience, and were gradually getting better and more confident.

'Sur le Pont D'Avignon...'
After lunch, we started our sightseeing of Avignon. The first thing that we visited was the 'Pont Saint Benezet', or better known as the 'Pont d'Avignon'. The bridge is one of the most popular attractions in Avignon, so we had to wait a while to get in. We hired some audioguides, and headed out to see the bridge.
The bridge was built in 1185, but only 4 of its original 22 spans still remain. The rest were washed away by the strong current. The bridge was originally made of wood, but was later rebuilt with stronger materials. The bridge was desroyed in 1226, at the time of the Albigensian Crusades. It was rebuilt, but kept being damaged by floods. Eventually, it was abandoned in the 17th century.
There was a small chapel inside the bridge, which is dedicated to St Nicholas, the patron saint of bargemen. At one point, the bridge even became the subject of a nursery rhyme and song. 'Sur le Pont d'Avignon'. The song talks about dancing on the Pont d'Avignon, and this did happen at one time, when the bridge's interior was converted into restaurants.

Musee du Petit Palais
After visiting the bridge, we decided to see the 'Musee du Petit Palais'. There was no audioguide here, so we had to rely on our French reading skills. Thankfully, there was more to see here than to read, so we didn't have to try too hard.
There were quite a few paintings here by famous artists. One of its main focuses was religious art, which isn't our favourite kind, but we enjoyed it anyway. There were famous paintings by Botticelli, Carpaccio, and Giovanni di Paolo.

We found some funny looking pictures among the religious paintings. Some of the artists really put some strange faces on the baby Jesus, and at other times he was painted with a six-pack! Very weird! We had a good laugh, not blasphemous, just at the painter's expense.
Does anyone else find this picture creepy?
One of the people working at the museum obviously loved his work, and loved talking to people. He grabbed people as they entered his section of the museum, and started asking them all about themselves, and telling them all about the paintings there. We struggled to understand him at times, but he was trying to show us things that he liked or found strange about each painting. He showed us where to stand, so that it looked like the figures in the paintings were looking at us.

It was really nice that he made such an effort, but Loren found that she didn't actually see many of the paintings properly, she was too busy listening to him and being taken quickly around to different paintings. We were grateful, but relieved when he jumped on the next couple to enter the room.

Palais du Papes (Pope's Palace)
Next we went to see the Palais des Papas. It was a really impressive building, and it stood in the middle of a huge square. The square had amazing old buildings on all sides and was worth staring at for a long time, just to absorb it all.
The Palace was built in the 14th century as a fortified palace for the Papal court, and became a home to the Sovereign Pontiffs.
It's now actually the largest gothic palace in the world. It was undoubtedly huge, but incredibly empty and undecorated inside, and it seemed more like a castle than a palace. There were 25 rooms to visit out of the whole place, including ceremonial rooms, chapels, cloister and private papal appartments filled with frescoes.
The papal appartments were more interesting than the other rooms, and the frescoes on the walls were faded but worth seeing. The rest of the rooms were bare and the only interesting thing about them was the audio guide commentary.
After we finished our tour, we made it to the terrace of the Palace. It was really high, and so we could see a long way over the city. The enormous square below was amazing to see from up there as well.


Old Town in the Evening
Our last stop before we left the Palace, was the little wine shop boutique. They had a great range of wine, like 'Cote du Rhone', which means, 'beside the Rhone river'. We decided to buy a bottle of the wine, as we were presently beside the Rhone river,
Outside the exit of the Palace, we saw a young group performing old French folk songs. Usually we would run away from this kind of music, but it felt right hearing it here, and we quite enjoyed it.
Then we wandered down through the streets of Avignon. It was such a picturesque town, and it was all surrounded by huge stone walls. As we walked, we came across an old carousel, in the middle of a square. It was brightly colourful and sparkly, with a couple of kids riding around happily. It really felt like we were in France now!
We picked up a fresh baguette, and some ham and cheese to go with our wine. We headed back across the bridge, just as the sun was setting. We could see the Pont d'Avignon and the old city from our bridge. It was just spectacular.
To see the photos from the post in slideshow mode, click on on the link below:
Avignon pictures