Siem Reap, Cambodia 01.03.08

Crossing the border

As we stepped off the bus to cross the border into Cambodia on foot, we were immediately surrounded by dozens of little children. Some carried umbrellas to shade us, others tried to sell us bracelets and souvenirs, and others just asked for food or money. We gave some chips to one of the boys that were holding umbrellas for us.

There are two things that struck us immediately about this country The first was how poor it was in comparison to other countries. Our driver told us that 70% of the people live in poverty, compared to the 30% in Thailand. The dirt roads and old style buildings reminded me of a Western film. But in the streets, instead of horses and women in beautiful dresses, there were people pulling wooden carts like oxen. Nearly everyone wears a mask on the road, as there is so much dust everywhere. Every seat and table develops a new layer of dust after a few minutes.

The second thing that struck us, was how incredibly beautiful every child and adult was. They were just gorgeous, with big eyes and perfectly shaped faces. It was so hard not to buy things from the adorable little kids that follow you around with their wares, begging you to 'buy from me'.

Angkor Wat

We went off on a safari to the ancient ruins of Angkor. All of the temples that we saw were originally Hindu temples built by the Indians who had been pushed across the sea by monsoons. Later on, as the country changed, it became buddhist, and monks still wander along its corridors in their saffron robes. Buddhists treat these temples as holy ground, and still worship there today.

Angkor Wat is surrounded by an enormous moat, and has a huge causeway (like a bridge across the moat) that runs from the outer edge of the water and all the way between the buildings. Sadly a lot of the heads of the buddhas that stand in the corridors have been knocked off and taken by treasure hunters and collectors and many animal figures were smashed by the Khmer Rouge in the 70s.

Surrounding the main building in Angkor Wat, are long corridors covered with bas reliefs (carved murals), which are much like the ones found in Egypt. They tell the story of the different kings that ruled there. There were beautiful dancers that filled the palace in ancient times, and they were in fact the source of most South East Asian dance today.

Bayon

The next temple that we saw was Loren's favorite. It was called Bayon. This temple was so filled with secret passageways and different levels that you could explore it all day and not have seen enough. Faces of the gods are carved on all of the towers and face all directions.

The most moving moment of all was when we climbed to the top of the tallest tower, where there was a small temple. In a corner there were several local people humming, crying and rocking back and forth. It was haunting to see people worshipping in the old ruins. It was like seeing ghosts in the corner playing out a piece of the temple's history.

Phimeanakas and the Royal Palace

This temple was almost like a pyramid. The steps on the sides were so steep and thin, you felt like you were mountain climbing. At the top, there was a flat terrace, that reminded us more of the Inca temples. Then there was a final tower to climb, in order to reach the very top.

Suor Prat Towers

No one is completely sure what these 12 towers were for, however one old document refers to them as a place for 'celestial judgement'. If two men were having a dispute, they would be placed in a tower for a few days, and whoever came out with a disease or fever etc, was guilty. The innocent person should have no health problems whatsoever.

Ta Prohm

If you have ever watched 'Tomb Raider', this temple will not be unfamiliar to you. Yes, Angelina Jolie walked in those very same corridors. This temple was almost enchanted. Some of the jungle that wound itself around the buildings and walls has been left intact. Enormous trees strangle buildings like boa constrictors. It's hard to see where the stone starts and the roots finish. We got lost in this temple and had to climb out over the ruins and fallen stones. It was rather exciting!

Polish Reunion

As we left Ta Prohm, we ran into Asia, one of Artur's old Polish friends, we were supposed to meet up with her and her friends in another city, the following day. What a small world! We celebrated by having dinner together at a traditional Khmer restaurant. The food was exceptional and the Angkor beer was perfect for soothing our thirst after a long day of walking.

Skinny

We have not yet introduced you to our mascot, 'Skinny'. Unfortunately 'Valentino the wrestler' was left at home, so we adopted 'Skinny'. Skinny accompanied us to the temples, and escaped from the bag at one point. (Skinny lighting incense above, Skinny going where no man has gone below)