Our trip to Laos began to get interesting right from the moment we arrived on the tarmac. The plane that we were about to board had propellers instead of the normal jet engines. Loren had never flown on one of these before, but Artur warned her that they were really noisy.
Unfortunately, we found ourselves sitting right next to the propellers, and Artur was not exaggerating about the noise. Loren had to wear earplugs for the first time in the trip. It was so loud next to the window, she felt like her ear drums were shaking.
It's a good thing that the plane was small as the line for visa on arrival was so slow! We had to fill in 4 separate arrival cards!
Paradise
The daytime temperature was extremely hot, but we walked to the National Museum, which used to be the Royal Palace. There were gifts stored there from countries all over the world. There was even a little sword from Poland.
There is no monarchy in Laos anymore, the royals died in prison cells, but the building is still open for historical purposes. It was a big piece of land with a temple, a theatre and the palace itself. The palace was built right next to the Mekong Delta so that access was easy.
That evening, we wandered across a shaky bridge to the other side of the river. We saw a sign for a Weaving village, but our explorations came up with a few houses, and no weaving. So we made our way back to the river to watch the sunset.
Kuang Si Waterfalls and Wildlife Sanctuary
After sleeping in again on our second morning, we went for a trip to the Kuang Si Waterfalls. When we arrived at the site, we wandered along the dirt track nearby where you could see a bear and tiger sanctuary. The bears were so cute!They were black bears that were rescued from being used to produce bile for Chinese medicine.
The tiger was difficult to find, but when we found her we followed her along the fence for ages. When she realised we were watching her, she got up from sunbaking, and wandered along to a rope with a big cushion bag attached and wrestled with it for a while. Then she paced along the fence back and forwards like she was on the "cat-walk". She had been rescued from poachers when she was very little and dying from all sorts of medical problems and neglect.
The waterfall itself was beautiful and the pools of water were a pale blue. Lots of people swung from a rope like Tarzan and splashed into the water. Some guys even jumped off the top of the waterfall. We didn't try that, but instead we swam behind the waterfall and clung onto the slippery rocks. The water was quite cold, but the water coming from the waterfall itself was warm from the sun.
Elephant Safari
Later that day, we left for an elephant safari. There was only one other person on the safari with us, a Welsh girl named Kate. Artur and Loren shared an elephant, and Kate had one to herself. The guides rode on the elephants' necks, and we rode on seats on their backs. It was rocky and slow, but they elephants were so sweet! It's amazing how softly and delicately they place their feet, despite their enormous size and weight.
We rode up and down really steep slopes, which didn't fase the elephants at all. Then we rode into the water, and the elephants sprayed water on themselves. They went quite deep in the water, we could almost reach it with our feet.
Afterwards we fed them bananas. Kate had paid to help wash the elephants afterwards too, but she was too scared to do it by herself, so Loren paid to join in too. They rode into the water, sitting on the elephants necks, with a guide sitting behind each of them.
The elephants almost submerged themselves completely, and the girls had to scoop wate onto them and scrub them with a brush. The guides sitting behind them ensured that the girls were completely drenched as well. Scooping water onto the girls as much as they did to the elephants.
We had dinner with Kate that night at a restaurant that was becoming one of our favorites, the Kmu. It was around this time that Loren realised she had developed and addiction to sticky rice. It's plain like steamed rice, but it's all stuck together and chewy. It's not as moist as steamed rice, and it's served with main meals in Laos. It's also used in some deserts, mixed with coconut milk and either mango or banana.
Unfortunately, we found ourselves sitting right next to the propellers, and Artur was not exaggerating about the noise. Loren had to wear earplugs for the first time in the trip. It was so loud next to the window, she felt like her ear drums were shaking.It's a good thing that the plane was small as the line for visa on arrival was so slow! We had to fill in 4 separate arrival cards!
Despite the delays and the noise, we loved the city of Luang Prabang from the first moment we arrived. We were transported to our hostel in a tuk-tuk that was kind of like a pick-up truck/ute that had some seats and a little plastic roof attached.
Paradise
The street where we arrived was a little paradise. There were open style restaurants and little shops on both sides of the road, and the road was closed from both ends to accomodate the evening craft markets. 
Everyone was so friendly, and not pushy like they were in Vietnam.
At our hostel, a monk came out to greet us, and gave us our room key. That just about topped everything off! What a strange place! In the morning, we realised that outside our door lay a smalll jungle-like garden and animals everywhere!
Everyone was so friendly, and not pushy like they were in Vietnam.At our hostel, a monk came out to greet us, and gave us our room key. That just about topped everything off! What a strange place! In the morning, we realised that outside our door lay a smalll jungle-like garden and animals everywhere!
Our Pets
There were two dogs and two cats that wandered around near our room, and a dove in a cage, and a fishpond. However, the best part of all was the cage just opposite our door, in which two little monkeys lived.
One of the monkeys was so cheeky! The was a hole in the cage, and he'd reach his arm out to you. If you put your hand near, he'd grab it really hard and pull it towards his mouth. We got caught at first, but after that we just teased him by pulling back our hand when he tried to rip our fingers off.
The other monkey was really cute! He was scared of us at first, but after we started leaving our door open, he would jump up and down trying to see us all the time. After he got used to us, he'd put his hand out too, but he only held our fingers gently, instead of grabbing them like the other monkey.
There were two dogs and two cats that wandered around near our room, and a dove in a cage, and a fishpond. However, the best part of all was the cage just opposite our door, in which two little monkeys lived.
One of the monkeys was so cheeky! The was a hole in the cage, and he'd reach his arm out to you. If you put your hand near, he'd grab it really hard and pull it towards his mouth. We got caught at first, but after that we just teased him by pulling back our hand when he tried to rip our fingers off.The other monkey was really cute! He was scared of us at first, but after we started leaving our door open, he would jump up and down trying to see us all the time. After he got used to us, he'd put his hand out too, but he only held our fingers gently, instead of grabbing them like the other monkey.Exploring the city
On our first day in Laos, we relaxed and tried to slow down our pace a little. We had a siesta, then went exploring the town. There was a heritage house on our laneway, which was built on stilts. There was also a temple a little further along.
On our first day in Laos, we relaxed and tried to slow down our pace a little. We had a siesta, then went exploring the town. There was a heritage house on our laneway, which was built on stilts. There was also a temple a little further along.
The daytime temperature was extremely hot, but we walked to the National Museum, which used to be the Royal Palace. There were gifts stored there from countries all over the world. There was even a little sword from Poland. There is no monarchy in Laos anymore, the royals died in prison cells, but the building is still open for historical purposes. It was a big piece of land with a temple, a theatre and the palace itself. The palace was built right next to the Mekong Delta so that access was easy.That evening, we wandered across a shaky bridge to the other side of the river. We saw a sign for a Weaving village, but our explorations came up with a few houses, and no weaving. So we made our way back to the river to watch the sunset.Two little girls sat with us waiting for us to buy their bracelets. The older one was teaching the younger one how to sell. So the little one would bring things up to us, and then return to her sister for advice. Very cute :}
Kuang Si Waterfalls and Wildlife SanctuaryAfter sleeping in again on our second morning, we went for a trip to the Kuang Si Waterfalls. When we arrived at the site, we wandered along the dirt track nearby where you could see a bear and tiger sanctuary. The bears were so cute!They were black bears that were rescued from being used to produce bile for Chinese medicine.
The tiger was difficult to find, but when we found her we followed her along the fence for ages. When she realised we were watching her, she got up from sunbaking, and wandered along to a rope with a big cushion bag attached and wrestled with it for a while. Then she paced along the fence back and forwards like she was on the "cat-walk". She had been rescued from poachers when she was very little and dying from all sorts of medical problems and neglect.The waterfall itself was beautiful and the pools of water were a pale blue. Lots of people swung from a rope like Tarzan and splashed into the water. Some guys even jumped off the top of the waterfall. We didn't try that, but instead we swam behind the waterfall and clung onto the slippery rocks. The water was quite cold, but the water coming from the waterfall itself was warm from the sun. Gibbon Experience
At the waterfall, we met two English backpackers who were living in Amsterdam, Ben and Debs. We caught up with them for dinner that night, and they told us about this trip they did in Laos which was the best thing they had ever done in their lives. It was called the Gibbon Experience.
Basically, the trip goes for 2 nights and 3 days, and you live in wooden huts at the top of very tall trees. Transport between trees and around the forest is by flying foxes or zips as they call them. For anyone who isn't sure what that is, it's strong wires between trees that you fly along which hanging from a harness. The guides stayed with them, but pretty much left them to do their own thing and look after their own safety. They zipped around to other people's houses and went looking for gibbons around the forest. Sounded amazing!
We were convinced that this was the trip for us, so we called and emailed the Gibbon office constantly but they were completely full. We only had a few days left in that region, so we had to let it go.
At the waterfall, we met two English backpackers who were living in Amsterdam, Ben and Debs. We caught up with them for dinner that night, and they told us about this trip they did in Laos which was the best thing they had ever done in their lives. It was called the Gibbon Experience.
Basically, the trip goes for 2 nights and 3 days, and you live in wooden huts at the top of very tall trees. Transport between trees and around the forest is by flying foxes or zips as they call them. For anyone who isn't sure what that is, it's strong wires between trees that you fly along which hanging from a harness. The guides stayed with them, but pretty much left them to do their own thing and look after their own safety. They zipped around to other people's houses and went looking for gibbons around the forest. Sounded amazing!We were convinced that this was the trip for us, so we called and emailed the Gibbon office constantly but they were completely full. We only had a few days left in that region, so we had to let it go.
Alms Giving Ceremony
The next morning, we got up really early so that we could go to the Alms Giving Ceremony. This takes place at 6am in the morning. All of the monks in the region walk in line along the street and the locals sit with baskets of rice and other foods to give to them. Each person puts a handful of rice etc into each monks container. This is how the monks have enough food to survive, along with other monetary donations made at the temples.
It was quite incredible to watch. So many monks in their bright robes, and the people have so much respect for them. Women are not allowed to touch monks, but they can talk to them. Loren chatted with one in a internet cafe!
The next morning, we got up really early so that we could go to the Alms Giving Ceremony. This takes place at 6am in the morning. All of the monks in the region walk in line along the street and the locals sit with baskets of rice and other foods to give to them. Each person puts a handful of rice etc into each monks container. This is how the monks have enough food to survive, along with other monetary donations made at the temples.
It was quite incredible to watch. So many monks in their bright robes, and the people have so much respect for them. Women are not allowed to touch monks, but they can talk to them. Loren chatted with one in a internet cafe!Elephant SafariLater that day, we left for an elephant safari. There was only one other person on the safari with us, a Welsh girl named Kate. Artur and Loren shared an elephant, and Kate had one to herself. The guides rode on the elephants' necks, and we rode on seats on their backs. It was rocky and slow, but they elephants were so sweet! It's amazing how softly and delicately they place their feet, despite their enormous size and weight.
We rode up and down really steep slopes, which didn't fase the elephants at all. Then we rode into the water, and the elephants sprayed water on themselves. They went quite deep in the water, we could almost reach it with our feet.Afterwards we fed them bananas. Kate had paid to help wash the elephants afterwards too, but she was too scared to do it by herself, so Loren paid to join in too. They rode into the water, sitting on the elephants necks, with a guide sitting behind each of them.
The elephants almost submerged themselves completely, and the girls had to scoop wate onto them and scrub them with a brush. The guides sitting behind them ensured that the girls were completely drenched as well. Scooping water onto the girls as much as they did to the elephants.We had dinner with Kate that night at a restaurant that was becoming one of our favorites, the Kmu. It was around this time that Loren realised she had developed and addiction to sticky rice. It's plain like steamed rice, but it's all stuck together and chewy. It's not as moist as steamed rice, and it's served with main meals in Laos. It's also used in some deserts, mixed with coconut milk and either mango or banana.
Easter Celebrations
We realised that this day was Easter Friday, which is hard to remember in a Buddhist country. We decided to celebrate by boiling some eggs in onion peels to dye them really dark, and then scratch patterns on them with a needle. Finding the eggs was easy, but the onions had to come from a local fruit and vegetable market, which is obviously not advirtised in the tourist area.
We eventually found the ingredients and used the kitchen at the hostel to boil them. The dye didn't work so well so we left them to continue the process overnight. We ran out of time for decoration, but we played the traditional game with them. It's kind of like playing "slaps" game. You try crack the other person's egg without getting your own cracked. Loren won by a country mile! We celebrated by eating the eggs for our breakfast.
We realised that this day was Easter Friday, which is hard to remember in a Buddhist country. We decided to celebrate by boiling some eggs in onion peels to dye them really dark, and then scratch patterns on them with a needle. Finding the eggs was easy, but the onions had to come from a local fruit and vegetable market, which is obviously not advirtised in the tourist area.
We eventually found the ingredients and used the kitchen at the hostel to boil them. The dye didn't work so well so we left them to continue the process overnight. We ran out of time for decoration, but we played the traditional game with them. It's kind of like playing "slaps" game. You try crack the other person's egg without getting your own cracked. Loren won by a country mile! We celebrated by eating the eggs for our breakfast. Slow Boat to Pakbeng
That morning we were beginning our trip by slowboat along the Mekong Delta to get to the Thai border - a 9 hour journey. The boat wasn't too uncomfortable, and we enjoyed the ride. We were luckier with we the boat we got on this part of the journey.
We arrived in Pakbeng, a little town that is only visited by tourists as a stopover for the slowboats. There is no running electricity, only generators that are turned on between 6pm and 10pm. This also means cold showers. The room we stayed in was invaded by rats or mice in the middle of the night. They were trying to eat the food we had bought for the boat trip the next day, so we had to hang the food bags on hooks on the wall.
That morning we were beginning our trip by slowboat along the Mekong Delta to get to the Thai border - a 9 hour journey. The boat wasn't too uncomfortable, and we enjoyed the ride. We were luckier with we the boat we got on this part of the journey.
We arrived in Pakbeng, a little town that is only visited by tourists as a stopover for the slowboats. There is no running electricity, only generators that are turned on between 6pm and 10pm. This also means cold showers. The room we stayed in was invaded by rats or mice in the middle of the night. They were trying to eat the food we had bought for the boat trip the next day, so we had to hang the food bags on hooks on the wall.Slow Boat to Houay Xai
The next boat trip was not so comfortable - and this time it was 10 hours! There were only a couple of comfortable seats, and the rest were wooden planks with a cushion an inch thin. We had been warned and had bought some cushions for the boat trips. Thankfully we sat in comfortable seats, but for sleeping, the floor beneath the plank seats was the most comfortable.
Houay Xai the border city was much bigger than Pakbeng, and we even found an internet cafe! It was quite a multicultural town, but we didn't find much of interest there. We vistied the office of the Gibbon Experience to make one last plea for a place before we left Laos, but to no avail.
The next boat trip was not so comfortable - and this time it was 10 hours! There were only a couple of comfortable seats, and the rest were wooden planks with a cushion an inch thin. We had been warned and had bought some cushions for the boat trips. Thankfully we sat in comfortable seats, but for sleeping, the floor beneath the plank seats was the most comfortable.
Houay Xai the border city was much bigger than Pakbeng, and we even found an internet cafe! It was quite a multicultural town, but we didn't find much of interest there. We vistied the office of the Gibbon Experience to make one last plea for a place before we left Laos, but to no avail. Impressions of Laos
Laos was by far our favorite place in South East Asia. We could have easily stayed there for much longer. Laos only opened to tourists in 1989, so compared to Vietnam and Thailand, it is still unspoiled. People are much friendlier and honest, and it reminded us of Cambodia. The people were also quite attractive in both places. If you have the chance, visit Laos, before it becomes like the other South East Asian countries.
We were also quite impressed with the efforts that Lao is making to keep the environment clean, most places advirtise green friendly tours and recycling etc. They also have some great programs to encourage literacy. Instead of buying lollies and balloons for kids, they recommend buying kid's books and giving them as gifts.
Laos was by far our favorite place in South East Asia. We could have easily stayed there for much longer. Laos only opened to tourists in 1989, so compared to Vietnam and Thailand, it is still unspoiled. People are much friendlier and honest, and it reminded us of Cambodia. The people were also quite attractive in both places. If you have the chance, visit Laos, before it becomes like the other South East Asian countries.
We were also quite impressed with the efforts that Lao is making to keep the environment clean, most places advirtise green friendly tours and recycling etc. They also have some great programs to encourage literacy. Instead of buying lollies and balloons for kids, they recommend buying kid's books and giving them as gifts. 
4 comments:
Hey guys! Great to see the blog updated! Glad you loved Laos so much... sounds like it was heaven :D one of my friends doing law at Monash said she loved Laos the best too- out of Vietnam and Thailand.. Good to see you keeping up the egg tradition! Hope you both had a great easter and that China isn't too cold for you...
I'm loving cooking again at the moment! i'm watching Gordon Ramsey videos on You Tube and then making his recipes :D lovin it! i cooked homemade pizza (including the base!) with chicken, roast pumpkin and salsa verde tonight! Hope you continue to have an awesome time :D
love Emma and Dave
Hey Emma and Dave!
Great to hear from you!! You should definitely visit Laos, so worth it! Vang Vien (or however you spell it) is apparently the coolest, but we didn't go there. You can float down the river on inner tubes from tires and there are bars and restaurants all along the river. People throw you bottles on a rope to pull you in, and everyone is partying and standing around in their swim wear in the bars. How crazy and cool does that sound?
Believe it or not, i'm cooking at the moment too! We did a cooking course in China, where we are at the moment. We haven't had much time to update, but we have several posts in progress at the moment. I'll have to send you the recipes, they were amazing!
It's pretty hot in China at the moment, it was only hot in the very south of China. Should really be the opposite!
Anyway, I'll update soon and let you know what we're up to.
Love you heaps!
Loren and Artur
Hi Arti,
I can see you will be in Poland soon. Any chance to have a beer with old (but not too old) friend or wild whole night party (preferably) in Warsaw? Or you go straight to Wloclawek from the airport... Cheers
Hey Gorzyn,
This is spooky. I was just about to write to you how and whrere are going to get wrecked in Warsaw or innych pieknych okolicznosciach przyrody. We will be in Poland at the end of May for a month. What about: a)June weekend in Warsaw, b) music festival in Gdynia c) windsurf in Hel or Mazuren. It would be rather brilliant to see you as it has been a looooong while.Let me know which options are the most suitable for you. Open to suggestions too.
Take care and keep in touch,
Artur
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